Aluminum Cleaning Care and Repair
Aluminum is a light-weight metal with a bright silvery luster. Small amounts of other metals are added to aluminum to make harder alloys for most uses. Its affinity for oxygen makes it resistant to corrosion and attack by most chemicals. Most aluminum used in visible parts of appliances is lacquered or otherwise coated, anodized or painted.
Aluminum reacts with air to grow its own thin oxide coating very fast. This hard, dark gray coating protects the metal. It's found on all bare aluminum surfaces, including utensils which, if rubbed on a counter or range top, or other material, makes a dark gray mark.
If washed off the outside of the pan, it quickly forms again. A commercial process, called "anodizing", thickens this coat and often colors it. Anodizing does not rub off. A special anodizing process produces a very hard, dark gray finish on professional type cookware.
Aluminum care depends on the product made from aluminum. Lacquers or waxes on products NOT used for food can protect aluminum against weathering and corrosion. Brighten aluminum utensils by cooking acid foods such as tomatoes, apples, or rhubarb or by boiling 1 to 2 teaspoons cream of tartar per quart of water OR 2 tablespoons vinegar per quart of water for 10 minutes in the pan.
Prevent discoloration in the bottoms of double boilers or egg poachers by adding 1 teaspoon vinegar or 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar to the water in the bottom pan. Remove stains from outside of aluminum pans with silver polish, or mild, nonabrasive cleaner. Soap-filled steel wool pads scratch the outside surface, so use only when removing burned-on food or grease is more important to you than the scratched pan. Remove hard water mineral deposits (lime scale) from tea kettles where they have become crusted, boiling equal parts of vinegar and water for several minutes and letting stand an hour or so. The process may have to b e repeated in severe cases. Rinse with plain water before using tea kettle.
 Burned-on Food or Grease: Fill pan with hot water and let stand 1 hour. Scrape off as much food as possible with a dull item such as a wooden spoon or half of clothespin, or plastic spatula or plastic sponge. Complete removal with soap-filled steel wool pad. For grease build-up, soak in very hot water with detergent; then scour with soap-filled steel wool pad.
Use mild a detergent and warm water when possible. Alkalis, even baking soda, and especially stronger alkalis discolor aluminum. If trying a stronger cleaner, pre-test on a hidden place to be sure it cleans satisfactorily and does not damage the aluminum. Always follow directions on the product label for aluminum, EXACTLY.
Be cautious about using abrasive cleaners (scouring powders, steel wool, abrasive polishes, etc.) as they may permanently scratch aluminum; painted or anodized aluminum surfaces will be permanently damaged. Do not clean aluminum when it is too hot to touch, or if temperatures go below 50 F.
On outdoor surfaces, remove bugs, sap, tree seeds, etc. as soon as possible, as they harden with exposure to sunlight and heat, and so are harder to get off. Suitable solvents will remove tar and similar substances.
Test solvent first if the aluminum is painted to be sure it doesn't also remove the paint. Follow label precautions when using solvents--no spark or flame in the area and have sufficient ventilation.
Discolored Aluminum: Heat a solution of 1 tbs. vinegar per qt of water or 2 tsp. cream of tartar per qt of water in each pan until discoloration disappears.
Vinegar: To clean an aluminum coffeepot and remove lime deposits, boil equal pans of water and white vinegar. Boiling time depends upon how heavy deposits are.
Bathroom Cleaning Tips
Windows and Mirrors
In a 32 oz spray bottle add 1/3-cup white (clear) vinegar and 1/4 cup rubbing alcohol. If you absolutely must have another cleaner add 1 tablespoon automatic dishwashing detergent.
Tubs and Shower Stalls
Alkaline in the water causes those not-so-pretty spots on your glass doors and shower walls. Apply a car wax to the walls and doors. Not on the floor or it will get very sleepery. Both fiberglass and glass are porous. The car wax seals those pours, which makes cleaning easier and keeps water spots away. Reapply twice yearly.
Squeegee or wipe down your shower after each use to further prevent buildup. If your tire of fighting the soap scum buildup switch to liquid soap, natural soap or Dove. It’s the talc in most bar soaps that causes the buildup.
Changing soap eliminates the buildup. You still need to clean the shower once a week, but the job is easier.
Clean the showers once a week with an orange citrus-based cleaner. Spray on and give it ten minutes to dissolve the dirt.
Test a spot to make sure it won’t scratch the fiberglass. Dampen the pad keeping it good and wet and gently scrub. This removes the soap buildup and most of the white mineral deposits on the glass doors. Nothing removes the etch marks themselves but further damage is halted. Reapply the orange citrus cleaner if necessary.
Plastic shower curtains can be machine-washed. Remove, spray with your diluted orange-based cleaner and wait about 10 minutes. Wash with your rags and they come out quite clean. Air dry. If the curtain is long enough cut off the seam at the bottom to prevent mildew buildup down there.
Toilets ring around your toilet? Again, alkaline causes those nasty rings.
Depending on the hardness of your water, pour one or two cups of white vinegar into the toilet once a month to eliminate the problem.
Toilet bowl rings
Here I take a deep breath and plead with you to follow these instructions. Repeat. Follow these instructions. Do not deviate or you will scratch the inside of your toilet bowl.
Turn off the water flow to the toilet and flush to remove the water. Saturate a couple of heavy-duty paper towels with white vinegar or the Orange Citrus Cleaner. Place around the edges making sure all areas are covered. Keep the towels damp for several hours, even overnight, until the water spots start dissolving. Then scrub with a stiff nylon brush.
If the white vinegar does not dissolve the whole ring, go to a janitorial supply store or a hardware store and purchase a pumice stone and a stiff toothbrush. Dampen one end of the pumice stone and keep it wet.
Gently, very gently, rub the pumice stone across the lines. When enough pumice builds on the sides, switch to a stiff bristle brush to continue working. Rub gently until the deposit disappears. Pumice will scratch the toilet. Use it only one time and cautiously.
Sinks
Once a month pour one cup of baking soda followed by one cup of white vinegar down the drain. Wait an hour and flush with warm water. The combination fizzles away most of the buildup. Works for shower, tub and kitchen sink drains as well.
Faucets
Water deposits build up around faucets and drain areas. Use a paper towel soaked in white vinegar and place around the faucet. Plug the drain and pour 1/2-cup white vinegar in the sink and wait. It takes time for the white vinegar to dissolve the alkaline. Scrub using a stiff bristled nylon toothbrush.
Do not use orange-based or powdered cleansers on brass or gold-plated faucets. These fixtures corrode and scratch quickly. Dry these faucets after each use to prevent water spot damage.
Mildew
Keep ahead of mildew so it doesn’t become a problem. Every six months spray your bathroom ceiling with a 50/50 solution of hydrogen peroxide and water. Peroxide is a safe bleach and won’t harm the environment or your lungs. Find larger quantities of peroxide at beauty or medical supply stores.
Spray the mixture on and leave it. No need to rinse or scrub. If you currently have mildew, follow the above directions. Wait two hours and respray. Then wait 24 hours and spray a third time if necessary.
Beer Stain Removal Hints
- Mix one teaspoon of a mild ph balanced detergent (a mild non alkaline non bleaching detergent) with a cup of lukewarm water;
- Mix one third cup of white household vinegar with two thirds cup of water;
- Sponge with clean water.
Note: Always test an inconspicuous area for colorfastness, etc. before treating the exposed area. Also note that certain stains are permanent.
Before You Clean Your Carpets And Rugs
Before You Clean Your Carpets And Rugs
If You Plan to Shampoo Your Carpet, First Try Pre-cleaning: Sweep the carpet, which will make the nap stand up and loosen the imbedded dirt. Next vacuum. With this work alone, the rug should show a noticeable improvement, so much in fact that you may decide to delay shampooing.
To Neutralize Odors: Borax and cornmeal. Sprinkle the carpet with a mixture of 1 cup Borax and 2 cups cornmeal. Let this mixture stand for an hour before vacuuming.
Carpet Freshener: Combine 3/4 cup baking soda, 2 tbs. corn starch, and 1/4 cup perfumed talcum powder. Sprinkle on dry carpet, let stand 5 to 15 minutes, then vacuum.
Stain Removal: Clean up spills as fast as you can. Blot or scrape up as much of the spill as possible, blotting from the outside toward the center. See our Stain Removal Pages.
Dents and Depressions: (From furniture or heavy objects.) Shift location of furniture from time to time. Brush the dented area, or use a grooming tool to loosen and stand-up the mashed tufts. Using a steam iron, steam the dented area lightly and brush up the tufts with your fingertips. Do not let iron touch the carpet. Hold the iron 2-3 inches above the carpet. (For carpets containing acrylic or mod-acrylic, use the warm setting on a hair dryer, as steam may melt the fibers.) To avoid further crushing, use casters under furniture legs.
Bleaches as Cleaners
The Basic Cleaning Families
- Abrasives
- Acids
- Bleaches
- Commercial Blends
- Solvents
Bleaches can oxidize and remove stains from surfaces and fabrics. Bleaches may also be used to lighten stains in wood as well as remove the color naturally in woods such as mahogany.
Caution: Rinse bleach thoroughly promptly to prevent fading.
Mild Bleaches
Sodium Perborate (an ingredient in commercial all purpose bleaches) and Hydrogen Peroxide. A solution will help lighten stains on surfaces such as plastic laminate, etc
Caution: Rinse thoroughly; follow label directions.
Strong Bleaches
Chlorine Bleach (Sodium hypochlorite). Removes stains. Disinfects toilet bowls, trash cans, other surfaces.
Caution: May bleach dark-colored surfaces; can dull porcelain enamel finish of sinks and tubs; darken aluminum; may be used with detergents. NEVER mix with ammonia or other cleaners. In fact, never mix any cleaning products. FUMES ARE TOXIC. When removing stains, leave on surface only a brief time, and rinse off immediately.
Wood Bleaches
Oxalic Acid, 2 part component wood bleaches from Albino® and Kleen-Strip ® . Removes color and stain from wood. Opens pores of wood to help accept new stain.
Caution: requires neutralization, very dangerous to work with, always wear hand and eve protection. Read label instructions carefully.
Blood Stain Removal Hints
Fresh Blood:
Cold water or Club Soda. Sponge stain immediately with cold water or club soda and dry with a soft absorbant terry towel. Repeat as necessary.
Dried Blood:
One reader reported that in nursing school they tell students to use peroxide on the blood before washing. She reported it really works. I'd test a small section as it could also have a bleaching effect, but worth a try.
or
- Mix one teaspoon of a mild ph balanced detergent (a mild non alkaline non bleaching detergent) with a cup of ice cold water;
- Mix one tablespoon of household ammonia with a half cup of ice cold water;
- Sponge with clean ice cold water.
Note: Always test an inconspicuous area for colorfastness, etc. before treating the exposed area. Also note that certain stains are permanent.
Butter Stain Removal Hints
Water sets this stain. Avoid it before using solvent.
Water sets this stain. Avoid it before using solvent.
- Sponge with a small amount of dry cleaning solvent;
- Mix one teaspoon of a mild ph balanced detergent (a mild non alkaline non bleaching detergent) with a cup of lukewarm water;
- Sponge with clean water.
Note: Always test an inconspicuous area for colorfastness, etc. before treating the exposed area. Also note that certain stains are permanent.
Candle Wax Removal
Candle wax is resistant to water and any water soluble cleaner. And, hot wax from a candle penetrates deep into the surface. In fact, water tends to spread candle wax stains making the condition even worse. Immediate heat may spread set these stains too. For the best chances of removal, please follow these steps:
- Carefully scrape up (with the edge of a butter knife) or lift off as much solid "wax" as possible. Be careful not to spread the stain with this physical removal.
- Next, place a tray full of ice cubes into a zipper type freezer bag and rest it over an affected area for several minutes. As the cold makes the wax more brittle, use the butter knife once again to scrape off any further residue. If the area is larger than ice bag, then use the same procedure systematically until entire area is treated.
Steps #1 & #2 are the "scraping process" (to be used again later on). After this "cold" method has removed as much of the wax as possible, you should then dry these "warm-hot" methods.
Start by using your hair dryer (on "HI" setting) to soften the crayon. Once again, carefully scrape up (with the edge of a butter knife or piece of cardboard) as much solid "candle wax" matter as possible OR place a very absorbent material, such as a "thick" paper towel or napkin over affect area. Take a 'warm-hot' iron and apply over this covering. Hopefully the wax will either soften so you can repeat step 1 or liquify the wax so it will be absorbed up into material. Pre-Soak stain in isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Allow to stand about 30 minutes. Agitate with a scrub brush. Rinse thoroughly with water. Once satisfied with results, allow surface to completely dry.
Note: Always test an inconspicuous area for colorfastness, etc. before treating the exposed area. Also note that certain stains are permanent.
Carpet Cleaning & Floor Cleaning Tips
WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE YOU CLEAN YOUR CARPET
- Strive to clean your carpet as soon as you notice any spills or spots on you carpet's surface. This action alone can save lots of time and damage, as well.
- Before cleaning any surface areas, use a small portion of your cleaning product(s) over a small and hidden area to avoid damage or discoloring of the carpet.
Proper care of your floor prevents damage, extends its life and keeps it looking new for years. How do you properly care for your flooring?
If you enjoy going barefoot or even if you don’t, kick your shoes off at the door. Why remove your shoes? If you have a rough board that needs smoothing you grab a sheet of sandpaper for the job. Guess what’s on the bottom of your shoes? Sand and dirt grind away at the fibers in your carpet causing them an early death.
A closer look at the bottoms of those shoes and you’ll find oil, dirt and heaven only knows how many tidbits of left over dog deposits. Small wonder why your carpet stubbornly refuses to come clean. Do wear slippers or socks inside. The oil from the bottom of your feet also dirties the carpet.
Vacuum your carpet regularly, and do not use liquid carpet shampoos to clean them. Ever wash your hair and forget to rinse out all the shampoo? The same thing happens to your carpet. The shampoo can’t be completely rinsed out leaving a sticky residue. That residue acts like a big old magnet pulling the dirt from the bottom of your shoes. Now you have clean shoes and even dirtier carpets. Use dry carpet cleaners instead. Stores selling vacuum cleaners carry one called Host and so does Sears
Getting out old shampoo becomes the trick. Rent a shampoo machine that cleans with water. Mix 1 cup vinegar per 2 ½ gallons of water and clean according to directions. Go back over the carpet with warm water only. The vinegar pulls out the old shampoo cleaning the carpet as well. It may take a time or two, but your carpets will be soft and free from grime. The hot water reactivates the shampoo already in the carpet providing the needed cleansing action.
Stains in carpet can be the dickens to remove. Never rub a stain, just blot. Rubbing breaks down the fibers and spreads the stain. Remove most food stains with shaving cream. Spray on and resist the temptation to rub it in then let it set 15 minutes. Rinse with a vinegar and water solution.
Club soda generally removes red wine stains. Remove red dye stains (found in drink mixes, Popsicles, dog and cat food) with a 30/70 solution of peroxide to water. Remember peroxide is bleach so test an inconspicuous spot first for color fastness. Apply the mixture, wait 30 minutes then remove as much moisture as possible and rinse with a vinegar/ water solution. If the stain remains add a bit more peroxide to the mixture and retreat
Brake cleaner also does a good quick job of removing most food stains. Dab a little on a clean cloth and gently blot the stain. Rinse with soap and water. Brake cleaner contains the same chemical professional dry cleaners use to clean stains in clothing. Do not pour brake cleaner directly into the carpet. It could dissolve the adhesive holding the fibers in the carpet.
Oops, the dog had an accident and the stain and smell refuse all attempts at removal. First try an enzyme product. Pour on enough to saturate to the pad and treat an area twice as large as the stain. Urine hits the pad and spreads. Let it set a couple of hours. You’ll find enzyme products at Pet stores, RV or marine stores. They are used in the holding tanks to dissolve solid material.
Should that not remove all the stain or odor, baking soda and peroxide remain your best hope. Mix a 30/70 solution of peroxide to water adding 1/2 teaspoon of baking soda per cup of mixture. Yes it bubbles and fizzles, but not before removing the stain and smell. Always test a spot first for colorfastness. Peroxide is bleach and may discolor the carpet. Blot up what you can with an old towel and rinse well with 1/3-cup vinegar per quart of water.
If you see red spots on your carpet where your pet just lost their lunch switch food to a neutral colored food. The red dye in pet food is the culprit behind those spots. Dogs and cats are colorblind, they can’t tell the difference. Again, use the 30/70 peroxide and water combination for removal.
Oil, grease, magic marker and ink can be the dickens to remove. Most janitorial companies or WalMart carry a product called DeSolvit. WD40 or Orange Clean all work wonders removing these stubborn stains. Rubbing alcohol removes ink. Blot on allow to set 30 minutes and blot to remove. Rinse with sudsy water. Magic marker is generally permanent and you may not be able to remove it.
Bubble Gum - Freeze gum with ice cubes and chip off what you can with the blunt side of a kitchen knife. DeSolveit removes the rest.
Wax - Freeze with ice and chip off what you can with the blunt side of a knife. Wax needs heat for removal. Some of the newer carpets are quite sensitive to heat and scorch easily. So test an out of the way spot first. You can also use a hair dryer set to the hottest setting.
Set your iron to a low to medium heat. The less heat you use, the less chance of scorching your carpet. Take a white paper towel or paper bag with no writing on it (the dye will transfer to the carpet) Put the towel down on top of the wax and iron the towel for no longer than 2 seconds. Move the towel and redo if necessary. Generally once is enough.
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